Driving on the A4 towards Brentford and Chiswick from the west is not an uplifting experience, rather it is stretch of the journey you want to achieve as quickly as possible. In the shadow of the elevated section of the M4, much of the north side of the road is depressed. Deserted parades of shops are broken up only by the bright lights of the giant car showrooms. There’s not a lot going on.

But venture a mere fifty yards back from the main road and you will find the oasis that is The Lord Nelson. This small, friendly establishment is very much a traditional pub with the decor featuring interesting bits of quirky memorabilia. The welcome is warm and the vibe relaxed.

If you just want to while away an hour or so with a drink or a coffee, help yourself from the good range of newspapers or, if you’re feeling a bit more energetic, there’s a dartboard. Outside, you’ll find a charming, sunny garden. Facing onto the garden, at the back of the pub, is a small, attractive dining room.

And it’s here that The Lord Nelson makes the short diversion off the A4 even more worthwhile. The recently-hired Spanish chef, Pablo, is passionate about his food and brings many Spanish influences to the menu which is long enough to be interesting, and short enough for you to recognise that all will be freshly prepared. The pub prides itself on sourcing most of its produce locally.

From the dinner menu, amongst the half dozen or so starters, the Smoked Bacon and Potato Scotch egg, with properly runny yolk, was declared delicious, as were the crab cakes. For me, nothing beats the calamari which have no hint of rubberiness but, having been marinated in milk and garlic and coated in a light, nicely seasoned batter, are tender and succulent.

It was hard to choose my main course as I wanted everything on offer, but the pulled pork bun, served with some of the best double-fried chips you’ll ever eat, was excellent. This sat atop a dollop of creamy ali oli – the signature Spanish garlic-infused mayonnaise which immediately brings sunny days and lazy lunches to mind. The chaps both had the hanger steak and chips which, at £9.50 must be the best value in west London, and was pronounced extremely good. Certainly nothing remained on their plates!

I’m not a pudding person but a fine and generous cheeseboard provided an excellent and accompanied the last half glass of the Merlot we’d chosen to accompany our very enjoyable meal.

The menu also features an interesting selection of bar snacks, as well as sharing boards. Sunday roasts are a great favourite with very sensible prices - £12 for roast beef topside, for example. As far as drinks are concerned, in addition to a range of coffees and teapigs, there are real ales, craft beers plus popular beers and lagers from the pump, and a decent wine list. The Chilean Merlot we enjoyed was just £19.95 a bottle and the most expensive wine on the list – a Chateau Loudenne Medoc is just £28.

The Lord Nelson is a hidden gem – it has verve and energy and is both child and dog-friendly. Seek it out; it’s worth the detour.


Jane Martin