Sam's Waterside

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New Brentford waterside restaurant from popular restaurateur Sam Harrison (Ad)

Restaurateur Sam Harrison alongside his business partner Fanny Stocker, have just opened their latest venture,Sam’s Waterside in Brentford. Sam first opened Sam's Brasserie in Chiswick with Sam's Riverside in Hammersmith following a few years later. He also has a chain of Sam's Larder delicatessens.

The newest restaurant is located in the Brentford Project. Like Sam's Riverside, it is on the ground floor next to the water - a canal in this case - with large windows with bi-folding doors to link to the outdoor space in warmer weather. The development is so new, the postcode is still not recognised by CityMapper and even Google Maps seemed a bit perplexed. That didn't seem to have deterred people as most of the tables were occupied the evening we visited. This was on a cold week day - so clearly the word has got out.

Sam was at Sam's Waterside when we arrived and, rather annoyingly, looked younger than the last time we'd seen him. Clearly opening and operating restaurants during pandemics, battling with councils for licensing permits and outdoor seating, and recruiting good staff during labour shortages is more rejuvenating than expected.

The menu includes many of the dishes that have proved popular at Sam's Riverside including the delectable Parmesan churros and some new seasonal options from Head Chef Jacob Keen Downs. We tried the crispy duck salad with watercress and persimmon as well as the fried artichoke with saffron and roasted garlic aioli. Both dishes were imaginative, beautifully presented, delicious, and had a good balance of textures. Then we had the chargrilled tronçon of halibut with crayfish beurre noisette, a side of chips, the sherry braised pork cheeks, the three cornered leek mash, and some kalettes and brassicas in lemon oil as a side. Both the halibut and crayfish came in very generous portion sizes whilst the pork cheek had a wonderfully deep flavour and was so tender. Only one of us could manage a dessert of a Basque style cheesecake with sloe berries and wild quince. We drank a glass of Sicilian white wine and then had a bottle of Argentinian Malbec recommended by the sommelier.

Commenting on the new restaurant launch, Sam Harrison enthused: “Staying in west London for my businesses means that we have a great many loyal customers who love what we do – and appreciate having various options for dining out.”Sam's Waterside also says: "There is a great value daily changing set lunch menu at £23.50 for two courses (£28.50 for three), available Monday-Friday. Additionally, a daily lunch special and a glass of wine are offered at £19.50, with dishes such as Moules Frites. Sunday lunch, always a big hit at Sam’s Riverside, will see traditional roasts added to the regular à la carte repertoire.”

"The Bar serves a full range of cocktails, beer and wine, and a short menu comprising oysters; pork and shrimp burger; and the Waterside Smash Cheeseburger. The well-priced and well-chosen wine list comprises 55 international bins (from £28 bottle)."

I think it's almost impossible to come up with a recipe for what makes a good restaurant but the acid test is always 'would you come back'. And I would definitely go back to Sam's.

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December 7, 2023